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“Hi Kajira!
Our troupe performs in American Tribal Style and our costumes have always been the ten-yard skirts and/or big pantaloons. We’ve been searching for a “new Look” and some of our members favor the Melodia-type yoga pants... but to me, it just doesn’t “feel” like we’re doing ATS when we’re wearing those pants. Is it just in my mind because the yoga pants tend to go with the tribal fusion groups? Please advise! ~ Sandra”
Hi Sandra!
I certainly understand the need and desire for “new looks!” I have been a major proponent of bright colors and optional costuming for ATS style Tribal BellyDance now for literally years. My first personal foray into colors for variety was a burgundy 7-layer light, huge, cotton skirt from Gwen of Flying Skirts of San Francisco. I bought it as my first skirt outside the FCBD class-required black ten-yard-ers. But alas, Gwen ceased making those quickly as the 7 tiers were just too many! But I still covet mine..... ;-) My personal second non-black skirt was also by Gwen (since I was still dancing with Carolena, Gwen was the costumer to FCBD then) was one of her layered solid-or-tiny-print-with-flower-print “Gypsy Skirts.”
I think the first brightly-colored skirts United We Dance (BlackSheep before name change) added were Banjara skirts from India. These come in various bright layers of lovely heavy cotton, often embellished with little doo-dads like pieces of lead (considered protective) and shells, usually with mirrors as well. All ya need do is make adjustments to the “waist band” so they can be “hip bands”. You will need some extra mirror (“shisha”) cloth to do this. For Banjara skirts, try Tribal To The Max as a place to start.
Then I became a vendor for several years while still in CA, and attended all the major events up and down the coast. I met gobs of other vendors who had great “from-over-there” contacts. From Bipin Jain at Jewel of India, our group got some of our fave skirts to this day, which we call “flufflies” because they’re so huge and bright and fun to wear! You can even get them now with bandani-style tie-dye spots. These are very versatile because they can be tucked into hips or used for skirt work, or just make a lovely line while spinning.
I then discovered Myst of India, and from them we all have multi-tiered white skirts which are so nice and very unique - we still don’t see any other groups wearing them even after three or four years of having them and getting so many compliments on them when we do. It’s lovely to wear white for ATS to break that “dark” mold. Of course any bright color goes great over white, and black-and-white can be clean and austere as well...... (p.s. - they have unbeatable prices and lots of fun stuff with a $100 minimum order, check ‘em out.)
For pantaloon variety, try panels over your pants. Or those long strings many of us wear over our skirts - they can worn under the panels and over the pants with an additional metal or mirror “topper” to dress them up.
And, finally, getting to the heart of your question: it is *how you dance*, not *what you’re wearing* that means more. Just because ATS in some areas has become associated only with black skirts and big pantaloons does not mean you are stuck with that “uniform” forever! There are no “ATS Police” who will drop down out of the rafters to give your group a costuming ticket.
What I would do (since I LOVE the Melos myself and wear them for teaching and taking class, and we have worn them twice in small shows as well with extra decoration) is take a vote amongst your troupe members. If you are the Director, don’t vote unless there is a tie. Then you can break the tie or veto.
If the majority really wants to wear Melos but not appear to be Tribal Fusion, then maybe you guys could add short skirts (Creatrix Designs has even Banjara minis!), panels over long string fringe (most folks make their panels, they are just rectangular pieces of brocade or other pretty fabric that hang down the back and front of your pants - BTW, make your front panels and skirts about an inch or so shorter than the back to allow for your butt curve, this way they will appear to be level when on and you’re less likely to stand on the front one if you guys want ‘em long), decorative light cloth draped in gorgeous ways across or over hips, or a rectangle of assuit or other cloth tucked into your waist in front and butt behind with the long drape between your legs (like old-style Turkish pants or MC Hammer).
Another way to further set yourselves apart could be by utilizing tassel belts, for example. Those have long been associated with ATS Tribal. Extra big tassels can look lovely at the hip bones, or for those dancers who are built with “no hips”, right at the side of the hip to give them some curves. Be sure to have many tassels all along the strings, they can be graduated from either small-to-large or vice versa (though you may find the opposite graduation, from large-to-small tassels on the way down, to be less “tangly” between your legs while in pants. Wearing tassels over panels will also aid in the tangle war). Of course, you could make shorter “pom-pom like” tassel “toppers” to wear with the pants as well which have no tangle danger.
Flounces of light fabric at the hips will also work wonders to add to your Tribal Melodia look. The same fabric used for the flounce can be wrapped around the entire hip area, flat, and you could add a layer of metal, mirror or coins to dress that look up..... Using bright colors can also aid in getting away from the black-or-white Fusion look. Get your pants in colors - Melodia offers many various colors and styles and is soon to release at Tribal Fest 6 her new creations with patterns collaborated with Phoenix Rising Designs (who vend next to her there). I am looking forward to adding several more to my collection then, as my old ones are wearing thin!
Next (working our way up) you could really “Tribal-up” your upper bodies by wearing your tribal bras over cholis. Most fusion dancers wear bras only..... if your cholis have 3/4 or longer sleeves, that will make a difference in how “ATS-y” you are perceived. Lots of jewelry, even over the choli sleeves! You may be able to find real Indian cholis from one of the vendors mentioned above that can be easily made to fit (these days, many leave India already sized for Americans). An Indian choli with Melodias would look more ATS-y than Fusion-y, I think.
Lastly, your heads. If you want a “no-doubt” Tribal look, even with Melos, try going retro with a turban. They look great and I think may be making a come-back (after all, things cycle, but I predict more turbans at Tribal Fest this year - I use The Fest as an “indicator” of “what’s hot”, to quote Paris Hilton). You may make them smaller than you would with huge skirts so as not to appear “top-heavy” - but that will take some practice to get just the right size, then you’d be set. Try building your turbans “upwards” more than “outwards” to achieve a “thinner, taller” look that would go best with the thin pants.
If you have long ago doffed your turbans and no one remembers how to build them, well, you could try “half turbans” which are essentially big headbands, leaving your hair to flow freely behind (you can even pull out sprigs of hair randomly from the folds of both turbans and half-turbans for a really wild look). These are simpler to put on and you can still add Tribal jewelry, flowers, feathers, shells or any other accessories you like. It seems more Tribal Fusion dancers favor the “sleek head” look, so this could help as well.
If head cloths are out of the question, build your *hair* up and add, add, add stuff to it: metal jewelry, mirror strips, flowers, shell ornaments, hanging things, feathers, hair sticks, you-name-it. Even add fake hair for those in need and in colors that match other parts of your costumes.
So, yes, I do think it may not “feel” Tribal to you *because* the Melodias have been associated with Fusion. But they don’t have to be Fusion-only in my opinion. After all, they’re so comfy and look so good on everyone, we should all be able to enjoy ‘em!
There are other cool pants to check out as well, by Tribal Evolution in TX, (I have a pair and love ‘em for teaching or taking class in, and with the stuff added above could be suitable for show), by Nourhan Sharif out of NYC, and by actual western dance suppliers such as Discount Dance Supply. (Look under jazz and liturgical.) Urban Outfitters offer some really cool wide-leg pants with a mellow, wide cotton hip band that look cool but I have not seen anyone dance in them yet (I need to order some and check ‘em out!).....
And don’t forget all the other types of skirts out there that are definite alternatives to either Melos or black ten-yards. The “fluffies” are about 20 yards around and the white ruffles (that also come in black and purple) make a cool tulip shape when you turn, as do the Banjaras (only their “tulips” are wider).
Of course, the main thing that will set ATS apart from Fusion (besides synchronized group improvisation) is our use of finger cymbals/zillar/sagat. Take the stage improvising and using cymbals and you will *not* be mistaken for a Tribal Fusion group no matter what you wear!
BlackSheep BellyDance costume requirements include all of the above mentioned items so we have lots of things to choose from. We still have black spinning skirts, too! Just in case....
Have fun with new costuming! Google the suppliers listed above to see what comes up. I know they all have web sites..... perhaps there are things you or I have not even thought of. Go for it. The thing about ATS is that it is not stagnant. It is constantly in a state of creation. So add to the whole, and don’t be afraid! Be as bold in your costuming as you are in your ATS dancing and you’ll be fine!
With much aloha and wishes for happy hunting, Kajira Djoumahna
Winner of 2 awards for Favorite Instructor (IAMED & Zaghareet!’s Golden Belly Awards), 2 awards for Favorite Event and Promoter for Tribal Fest (Zaghareet!’s Golden Belly Awards - thanks to all of you readers!) and some honorary awards for DVD content and outstanding achievement. Author of the Tribal Bible, 2 instructional DVDs, producer of Tribal Fest and Maui Intensives, global workshop teacher and director of BlackSheep BellyDance CA & HI. www.BlackSheepBellyDance.com |